Full Bust Adjustment

Of all the pattern alterations, the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) is the most important one with which to be proficient.  The name is a bit misleading.  You may assume that only women with large busts need a FBA.  That is not necessarily true.  If you choose your pattern size correctly.  Read the rest of the article here.

I thought you would enjoy a picture of my little Bubula's costume this year.  Here he is at a Halloween party.

I made it from a McCall's pattern, per the request of my DD.  There is a funny story about the hood.  The pattern directions have you sew the ribbons on in little loops.  I sewed the first row of ribbons on and thought "hmmmm,  Lion King or Cowardly Lion?  I showed it to DH who just smirked.  I sewed the second row of ribbons on, which were smaller loops placed in front of the larger loops to cover the raw edges.   I inspected again.  Oh boy, definately Cowardly Lion.  I thought, "in for a penny, in for a pound," and sewed the rest of the ribbons on.  I took it off my machine and burst out laughing.  It now was not just Cowardly Lion - but Cowardly Lion after he had been to the beauty shop at Oz!!!  That wouldn't do for my little bubula, so I took my scissors and gave him a shaggy haircut, cutting out all of the loops and even cutting up the lengths of the ribbons.  Now he is my Lion King.  Roar!

Pick the Right Pattern Size for a Perfect Fit

We all know the excitement of choosing a pattern and finding the right fabric.  Before we start sewing, we dream of the perfectly made and perfectly fit garment.  But we all also know the disappointment of the garment that just doesn't fit right when it is done.  It gaps at the bust line or the armholes.  There is too much fabric under the arms, but not enough fabric across the bust.  Our dream garment is tossed in the closet and never worn.

Fitting a garment is easy if you buy the right sized pattern. But most women buy the wrong sized pattern!  Why is that?  It is because we are just following the directions of the pattern manufacturers.  They tell us to measure our bust, then pick the size of the pattern based on our bust measurements.  Why doesn't this method work?

Look at the two women in the drawing.  Both of these women are a size ten in the neck and shoulders.  But obviously, one size pattern will not fit both women.  To understand how a pattern will fit, you have to understand the basic assumptions that pattern companies make.  First, pattern companies assume that everybody is a "B" cup size.  Secondly, they assume that everybody's body parts are at the same level they were when they are 21!  Well, if you are from the population of women who wear a B cup and are in your young 20's, great!  Most patterns will fit you with very little modification.  But what about the rest of us women?  Especially those of us who may be loosing our battle with gravity??

The Palmer/Pletsch method of pattern fitting will give you a way to choose a pattern size that will give you a perfect fit in clothing.  It is based on historical precedence.  In 1873, James McCall wrote the following instructions:

•      "Ladies' patterns.... should be selected according to the bust measure.  Pass a tape-measure around the bust just under the arms.  Draw it one inch tighter than the dress is to fit.  The number of inches  then ascertained is the size of the bust."

     

So now we have the first rule in choosing the right pattern.  We will use the HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT when choosing the pattern size for blouses, dresses and tops.  This will ensure that the pattern fits perfectly around the shoulders and neck.  It is then very easy to alter the pattern to fit our various sized, shaped and positioned bust line.  Here are a couple of things  to remember when taking a high bust measurement:

•     1.   Measure over the underwear that you plan to wear with your garment.  It will make a big difference if you are wearing a sports bra vs. a bra that     enhances your bus tline.
•     2.  Measure with a snug SKIN measurement.
•     3.  After you  find your measurement, compare it to the pattern size.  If you are in between pattern sizes, choose the SMALLER pattern size, unless the pattern is VERY fitted.

To select a pattern size for pants and skirts, measure your hips at the FULLEST part

.  The fullest part may vary from person to person

     It may be about 7 - 9" below your waist
      It may be only 3" below your waist
     It mach be below your crotch  in the thigh area.

Once again, measure snugly.  Pick your pattern for skirts and pants using this measurement.  If you are in between sizes, go to the next HIGHER size.

What if your bodice and hip measurements puts you in two different pattern sizes?

You can:

• Buy to fit your top and alter the bottom
• Buy two patterns, if necessary
• Buy separates in the correct sizes for your top and bottom.

You are off to a great start for a great fitting garment.  In the next newsletter, we will talk about how to do a Full Bust Adjustment to alter your pattern for fit you perfectly!

I have posted the free pattern for May - it is called Go! Butterflies are Free!.  It is designed in 4 colorways to help inspire you - batik, thirties, teal monochromatic, and coral and blue.  I also have a new cutting instruction design.  I get so confused when I am following cutting instructions on quilts.  I can't tell what fabric they are telling me to cut out for which shape.  I designed a color coded diagram for cutting.  I think it is a much easier way to cut!  Let me know how that works for you!  Go! Butterflies are Free download.

About a year ago, I was asked to teach a Batik Class.  At first, I wasn't sure how to organize it - so many supplies, techniques, drying time, soaking time.  But, I spent about 6 months developing the class.  This week I taught the first class.  It was so much fun!  We learned different ways of applying the wax, with paintbrushes and tjanting tools.  We learned how to dye the fabrics after the wax is applied, and started on overdyeing techniques.  In the picture below, you see Jan direct dyeing her waxed design.  Everybody had fun, and nobody wanted to go home!  Next week, we learn how to use Tjaps!

This week, my quilt group went on a field trip to Hokey's Fabric Shoppe, located in Stevensville, Montana.  I was so impressed with this new quilt store!  Elaine, the owner is so friendly and welcoming.  She named the shop after her mother Hokey, whose lifelong dream was to have a fabric shop.

  Elaine has a great eye for fabric selection, and is dedicated to keeping her prices low - fabrics were mostly $8 a yard and under.  She has a large section of beautiful solids for $5 a yard.  She has a good selection of quilting notions, too.

One thing that particularly makes her store stand out above the average quilt store is that she has service products for her customers to use.  She has a Accucut Studio Die cutter so that her customers can cut out their quilts - with no rental charge!  She has a computer set up with Electric Quilt 7 for customers to design their quilts.  And she has a beautiful long arm machine to rent for a very reasonable price.

I plan on being a regular customer at Hokey's and recommend this store highly to my students and fans.

I had a very nice article in the Ravalli Republic today.  I haven't blogged for over a month - I have been so busy!  The new store is going great! 

Ravalli County microloan program helps businesses get off the ground

The county microloan program has existed in Ravalli County for less than a year, but the positive impacts are already being felt.

"It is working," said Julie Foster, director of the Ravalli County Economic Development Authority.

The microloan program awarded its first loan in May, that one to Florence-based BVS. Since then, the RCEDA has awarded three more. In total, the group has loaned $21,000 of the $100,000 available.

The program was started by the Ravalli County commissioners with $100,000 from their Payment in Lieu of Taxes fund.

Foster said so far the loans have attracted considerable interest, but the application process is significant and that deters some businesses from following through.

The RCEDA asks interested businesses for a business plan. If they don't have one, the RCEDA assists the business in creating one.

Loans are typically between $500 and $10,000, Foster said. She added that applicants can be existing businesses that have struggled for any number of reasons, but typically they are new businesses.

Of the four loans awarded thus far, two were new businesses, one was existing and the fourth is in the process of creating its business plan.

Aside from BVS, a company that helps beekeepers nationwide fight colony collapse disorder, loans have gone to Pinnacle Sewing Service and Plenty Coups Archery, both startups in Darby.

The fourth was awarded to the Emergent Institute in Stevensville to help the company come up with a business plan. Once up and running, Foster said the Emergent Institute could create as many as 20 jobs for people with disabilities to provide computer software training.

Foster said microloans aren't for existing businesses with good credit or other funding options.

"This is for folks and businesses that can't get started any other way," Foster said. "The goal is to bring them in here, nurture them, whatever the heck it takes for them to be a success."

Most loans are for five years, Foster said, and at the end of those five years, business owners have built up credit to hopefully be eligible for more traditional loans from banks.

"That's great for the banks. We've helped mold a good customer for them that does understand their financials," Foster said.

In the case of BVS, which received the first microloan of the program, that boost gave the company added leverage.

BVS received a Rural Business Enterprise Grant from the United States Department of Agriculture.

"We were able to make a small loan to him ... which ended up leveraging an additional $20,000 to a business in Ravalli County," Foster said. "Having those additional sources of money coming into a project, regardless of how small, helps reduce everyone else's risk."

When the $100,000 from the commissioners runs out, Foster said it will be up to the current commission to decide to fund the program.

"This is the first year. You go back and visit (the businesses) in the second year and the investments turn into eight jobs and more equipment and more of a tax base," Foster said. "And that's what it has to be about for the commissioners."

 

Karen Tinney, owner of Pinnacle Sewing Service in Darby, is very upfront about the impacts of her microloan.

"I wouldn't have been able to open and have an inventory if I didn't have that microloan," Tinney said. "It was crucial."

Tinney transitioned from an at-home sewing service into a full business with the help of a microloan. At Pinnacle, Tinney does sewing and alterations, long-arm quilting as well as sells fabric, thread and batting needed for alterations.

"It's a service-oriented store that has products that support my service," she said.

Tinney echoed Foster by saying the loan didn't just help her with startup costs, but will continue to help her in the future.

"When the time comes when I want to expand some more, it has given me a stronger base," she said, adding the microloan has helped her establish credit as well as a strong business and track record.

Pinnacle opened on Nov. 1 and Tinney said she is already planning on adding an employee this spring. And she has already had to change locations.

"I outgrew the first building I was in in four weeks," she said.

Tinney said the process of getting a microloan is not for the faint of heart. She said she spent six weeks of full-time work creating her business plan.

"It's like writing a master's term paper," Tinney said. "It needs to be complete."

But despite the tedious work that went into her business plan, Tinney said she would tell business owners interested in the microloan program to not let that get in their way.

"The business plan, though it's a lot of work, is a critical part of being successful," she said. "Don't let the business plan be a barrier."

Anyone interested in a microloan or technical assistance for their business should contact the Ravalli County Economic Development Authority at 375-9416 or stop by the Ravalli Entrepreneurship Center, 274 Old Corvallis Road in Hamilton.

Well, I will admit it was a stressful and tiring week, but the good news is that we are all moved in.  The new building has so many advantages - it is bigger, it is in a better locations (right across from the Darby post office!) and it has a wood stove.  I have really enjoyed sitting by the wood stove while I am hand sewing, or ripping out for alterations.  I saw so many friends this week, and had so many new customers.  I can't wait to see what the new week will bring.
 

Today was moving day for Pinnacle Sewing Services.  It went very smooth, with all the credit going to my friends Trudy, Mike and Paula.  With five of us working, we had the store moved over in just a few hours!

I arranged the main furniture and displays, and I the bigger space is just wonderful.  Tomorrow, I "just" have to take everything out of their boxes and bags and put them away.  Unless the elves do it for me tonight......

Pinnacle Sewing Service will be OPEN for business on Monday morning!  I won't promise that everything will be  in its right place, but we will be back in business.

Make sure to come in and say hi this week.

The new address is 404 N. Main Street, Darby, MT.  We are right across from the post office - so stop by when you get your mail!

Can you believe it?  After only a few months I have outgrown my first store.  This weekend, Pinnacle Sewing Service is moving.  It will now be located at 404 N. Main Street, Darby, MT.  It is conveniently located right across from the post office.  So stop in and say high.  Warm up next to the wood stove.  I look forward to seeing everybody at the new store.